Bahia Asunción

Arrived Bahia Asunción. Completed an 11 hour 55nm passage from Bahia Tortuga… seas were calm and skies were clear.

Did laundry while underway… Dave caught/released 23 skipjack tuna and caught/kept two 50lb yellowfin tuna… Heidi used some of the yellowfin to make ceviche.

We had a calm day in the anchorage, so we tackled a few boat projects… very pleased to have met Lery Espinosa and for the opportunity to use his diesel refueling service while here in Bahia Asunción.

Bahia Asunción

Bahia Tortugas

Arrived Bahia Tortugas. Had a small weather window to depart Ensenada Marina Coral with expected 12ft swell NNW making way from the Gulf of Alaska. Out of Ensenada we beat directly into the swell until reaching Isla Todos Santos and turning south into a more following swell.

During the 50-hour 300nm passage the rough sea state gradually lessened to more a comfortable motion and the bright moon made the two watch nights more enjoyable. Mostly motor-sailed or motored due the variable winds.

Bob unexpectedly sacrificed his iPhone to Neptune and it now resides on the seabed under roughly 1,000’ of water at 27°43'N 115°20'W, ~23nm WNW of Bahia Tortuga, BC, MX. Note: MagSafe mounts aren’t that secure. Hopefully we can find a replacement in San Jose del Cabo.

Dave caught a nice skipjack as we inched closer to the Bahia Tortuga entrance and grilled it for dinner our second night at anchor.

We could hear the band practicing as the community prepared to celebrate the Día de la Revolución (20-November), a significant national holiday in Mexico.

Our new ground tackle (73lb Rockna anchor and Mantus bridle) held strong in the 20kt sustained easterly winds.

Bahia Tortugas

Ensenada

Counting Stars departed San Diego 0500, crossed into Mexico waters and raised the Q flag!

For checking into Mexico, we worked with Michelle Aguilar from BC Connection Yacht Management who was absolutely fantastic! BC Connection's bilingual staff, located in Ensenada, Baja California, MX, worked together along with the Port Captain Authority, Port Agents, Customs, Immigration, and Banjercito to expedite our TIP, vessel paperwork, vessel/crew clearance, fishing licenses, biosphere passports and customs paperwork in Ensenada. They do all the work that can be done ahead of time, so that when she picked us up to check in we made only a single stop and were done with the process in under an hour and eating breakfast at a lovely local restaurant. If you are checking in at Ensenada by boat, and don't want to risk making mistakes with your paperwork or waste most of your day with running around to different stops, then you definitely need to enlist the services of BC Connection! Oh, and they have one of the coolest 3D billboards ever... https://www.bcconnection.com.mx/

We were in Ensenada a bit longer than planned so Melinda can focus on getting her sciatica pain under control. We’re lucky to be in a Marina adjacent to a hotel that offers pool access, walking paths, shuttle services, etc. The staff at Marina Coral go out of their way to greet the kitties when they see them walking on their leashes or just hanging out on the back of the boat… they yell “hola, brown Bengali” (pronounced: ben-gull-ee)

We explored downtown, a few local restaurants and tiendas… practicing our Spanish along the way. People were very friendly.

San Diego

The 52nm passage from Oceanside to San Diego completes the second leg of our passage south. In total, we’ve completed 1775nm since departing the PNW two months ago (Leg1: PNW-SF 1251nm; Leg2: SF-SD 524nm).

We encountered a pod of playful dolphins and a large amount of marine traffic under moderate fog which did not burn off until entering San Diego Harbor.

We were in San Diego a few weeks to prepare the boat for our passage into Mexico, visit with friends and welcome our friends Dave Elliott and Heidi (Sailing 10X) as crew from San Diego to Mazatlán.

Dear friends made the drive from Arizona to explore San Diego and visit us, the boat and the kitties… It’s always a fun time with the Jochim’s and Clark’s… good friends, good laughs, good food and good drink.

Kris flew down from Seattle to help with our final preparations for the third leg of our trip from San Diego to Mazatlán and our fairy goddaughter sent 47lbs of love… she repacked items and shipped with great care into one box!

Our stay at the Safe Harbor South Bay marina was great. The staff quickly became family and will be greatly missed. We treated them to a pizza lunch just days before our departure to show our appreciation of their exceptional service. Hopeful our paths will cross again.

Oceanside

Completed 52nm passage from Long Beach to Oceanside. We departed Alamitos Bay in light fog before turning south into San Pedro Channel then were greeted by dozens of dolphins in the Gulf of Santa Catalina.

Upon entering Oceanside Harbor, we found our assigned slip was occupied so we temporary tied up in a commercial ship while the Oceanside Harbor Police (who offer after hours support for the Marina) resolved the issue and helped move us into our slip.

Oceanside is great… a nice walkable beach town with friendly people and lots of good food. Got our steps in exploring the harbor, downtown and the pier (one of the longest on the west coast).

Emme learned she does not like sea lions, specially when they get too close to her boat.

Long Beach

Completed 75nm passage from Ventura to Long Beach. Departed Ventura Harbor at 0400 under dark skies in heavy/pea soup fog. Thankfully we were able to safely navigate out of the harbor by retracing our route in… aka following our gps breadcrumbs. Mostly motored or motor-sailed due to lack of wind with mixed seas that became calm and following mid-morning. We were met by one of the largest pods of dolphins in the Pacific Ocean, known to cover up to 2 miles in the Santa Barbara channel. Crossed San Pedro Bay amongst the most commercial traffic we’ve seen since departing the PNW and made way into Alamitos Bay to dock at the Long Beach Yacht Club.

The Long Beach Yacht Club (LBYC) offered a welcoming atmosphere to us as reciprocal yacht club members with top-notch amenities including a beautiful clubhouse, heated saltwater pool, clean and modern docks with easy access to the waterfront.

We made the most of our short visit… swam at the LBYC pool, enjoyed great food at The Attic, Spaghettini and Urban Plates; explored Belmont Shore and Naples by foot; and caught up with a dear friend who gave us a private tour of Long Beach including a stop at the Queen Mary.

Morro Bay to Ventura

Completed 128nm overnight passage from Morro Bay to Ventura. Departed Morro Bay under a sea of stars before moderate fog set in for most of the day. The seas were confused following a 2-day gale but became following in the afternoon and evening making for a more comfortable passage.

After rounding Point Conception, we had dinner and settled into our night shifts continuing to monitor the commercial traffic in the Santa Barbara Channel and awed at the massive number of oil platforms in the bay.

Morro Bay

Completed 122nm passage from Monterey to Morro Bay. Motored the first half then found wind, turned the engines off and sailed with the code zero and reefed main for the remainder.

On this 32 hour overnight passage, we had no fog, calm seas and watched the moon set. We were greeted by many whales, visited by several birds, and a pod of dahl’s porpoises played in the bow wake.

We set a course to take us 25nm offshore so not to jibe in the middle of the night and set us up for a straight shot into Morro.

Proudly flew our Bremerton Yacht Club Burgee at the Morro Bay Yacht Club while we wait out the next gale… very friendly folks and a beautiful club!

Had fun exploring Morro Bay… great food, friendly people and unique shops. We made the hike down to Morro Rock and were back on the boat just before the gale started. The cats have not been bothered by the wind or waves.

Monterey

Completed a 62nm downwind motor-sail from Half Moon Bay to Monterey. Lucky we got a slip on the Monterey Municipal Marina docks for a few days while we await our next weather window. Great downtown location within walking distance to many attractions.

Had a great time exploring Monterey, Carmel, Pebble Beach, Sand City, and Pacific Grove CA. We explored the old cannery, aquarium, did the 17-Mile Dive in Pebble Beach, had lunch in Carmel, and visited the Point Pinos Lighthouse, the oldest continuously operating lighthouse on the west coast since February 1, 1855.

Half Moon Bay (Pillar Point Harbor)

Passed under the Golden Gate Bridge in moderate to heavy fog for a short 33nm passage to Half Moon Bay.

Always fun checking out new places… El Granada CA is a nice little town, great food and the people were really nice. Met some local fishermen and a sailing class that stopped overnight as part of their ASA 108 practical (offshore navigation).

Zoe and Emme enjoyed watching and listening to the dozens of birds on the breakwater as they flew and squawked at the fishing boats passing by.

Pillar Point is a well-known location on the coast of Northern California, near Half Moon Bay. The area is famous for its dramatic cliffs, ocean views, and surfing at the nearby Mavericks Beach.

We had planned to move further south yesterday but the weather at our destination changed so we decided to stay a few more days to wait for a better weather window and reconsider a longer passage to avoid the weather around the entrance into that bay.

It’s a different feeling to be able to go at a slower pace and choose when to go vs being on a schedule and going when the conditions might not be as comfortable. First time we’ve had the luxury of choice.

Sausalito

Enjoyed our time in Sausalito and San Francisco. Had the opportunity to explore, provision, bid farewell to our crew, visit with friends and get some much needed rest.

Visited the Bay Model Museum in Sausalito CA… it’s the size of two football fields and reproduces features that affect the water flow of the San Francisco Bay and Sacramento-San Joaquin Delta, including ship channels, rivers, creeks, sloughs, the canals in the Delta, fills, major wharfs, piers, slips, dikes, bridges, and breakwaters.

https://www.spn.usace.army.mil/Missions/Recreation/Bay-Model-Visitor-Center/

The BIG LEFT TURN: Port Townsend to San Francisco

August 28th, we completed 1251nm from Port Townsend WA to San Francisco CA (with a brief stop in Eureka CA to await a weather window).

It was great to have our friends Andy Temesvary, Patrick and Victoria Gehring join as crew to share the load… but even better to share a meal, a drink, laughs and the memories of the 8-day passage:

Day 1: August 11th, we departed Port Townsend early morning for Neah Bay, in moderate fog and motored as the winds were <2kts.

Day 2: August 12th, made the “BIG LEFT TURN” out of the Strait of Juan de Fuca into the Pacific around 1am. Continued making way under motor as the winds were too light and variable to sail. With2-3m swell on beam and choppy waves, we headed further west to where the depth drops to get a better sea state before turning south again. Sightings: multiple pods of whales in the Strait south of Neah Bay; dahls porpoises off Washington coast west of the Olympic National Park.

Day 3: Off Oregon Coast. Motored, calm seas, no wind. Crew settled into watch schedules including Emme and Zoe who quickly got their sea “paws”.

Day 4: Although the fuel level was good, we took advantage of the calm sea state to top off the fuel tanks to be ready should a weather window open to skip Eureka and push on to round Cape Mendocino.

Day 5: August 15th, under calm seas and heavy fog, we crossed the Humbolt Bay Bar around 2pm, making an abrupt turn at the entrance as the fishing vessel we were following disappeared from AIS and radar… then resumed course after hailing them on the VHF to confirm their position. We had arranged to fill our tanks at the Englund Marine fuel docks. This was a true commercial vessel experience from the floating platform to the hoses reeled by pumps housed in metal bins… all I can say is I’m sorry for what I said while docking at the so called “floating fuel dock”. After docking at the Woodley Island Marina, the crew met for dinner at the marina restaurant and took advantage of the walking paths and fresh air to stretch our legs on land.

Day 6: August 16th, we departed Humbolt Bay under clear skies, minimal swell and light winds. Finally had some wind and sailed for 5-6 hours before starting an engine to motor again south to stay ahead of a low-pressure system. Sightings: several pods of dozens of fast-moving humpback whales throughout the day... a few came very close to the boat and even swam under us.

Day 7: Winds built from 9-12kts at midnight to sustained 18-20kts gusting to 23kts midday with wind waves 4-5ft. Sailed with just our jib making 8-10kts speed in these sporty conditions before the wind direction shifted so we motored south with both engines and a double reefed jib to provide some stability as we cut through the confused sea state. Safe, just uncomfortable.

Day 8: August 18th, we had lots of excitement onboard as we passed under the San Francisco Golden Gate Bridge in moderate fog… once cleared, we turned into the channel for Sausalito under clear, sunny skies and warm temperatures.

This leg of our trip south is complete!

Preparing for the BIG LEFT TURN!

We’re preparing to make THE BIG LEFT TURN… a reference to when a boat gets to the westernmost end of the Strait of Juan de Fuca just after Neah Bay (WA) and can turn left and go as far south as they want to go!

We will depart the PNW in just over a week (weather permitting) and expect our ~800nm passage south to San Francisco (CA) from Port Townsend (WA) to take 10-14 days… and we’ll be offshore 25-50nm. If the weather pattern is favorable, we will go straight to San Francisco (CA), otherwise we’ll make a stop (or two) in Oregon until the weather/sea conditions at Cape Mendicino are favorable.

We will be in California for a few months working our way south and plan to depart early November from San Diego (CA) for La Paz (MX).

Saying Goodbye

Saying goodbye is an inevitable part of the cruising lifestyle… sailors sail around, they meet other sailors, become fast and deep friends, and then sail away. Maybe forever, maybe for many years.

So why do we put ourselves through this? The answer of course is that the friendships are worth it.

The phrase “fair winds and following seas” is essentially an expression of good wishes for safe travels on someone’s voyage at sea, wishing that they will have favorable winds pushing them forward (the fair winds) and calm waters underneath them (the following seas). It’s meant to be a blessing that covers all aspects of their journey: safety from storms, safe navigation across choppy waters, and good fortune throughout their travels—all at once!

So, fair winds and following seas to our dear friends… hope our paths will cross again.

Eagle Harbor (Bainbridge Island WA)

As we continue to make our way north and explore more of the central sound, we met friends (Darrell and Mary) in Eagle Harbor to celebrate their wedding anniversary and test our new anchor in this calm anchorage with great holding and amazing views of downtown Seattle.

Downtime on Blake Island

Mid June, we took a break from boat and land projects to visit Blake Island for a few days. Getting off the dock in 20+kt winds in Bremerton would have been more challenging without the help of our marina friends Grant and Kevin… however, picking up a mooring buoy in 20+kt winds was entertaining for any boats anchored or passing by.

We settled into the west anchorage of Blake Island, which was sheltered from wind and commercial maritime wakes. Our time was filled with calm seas, sounds of an occasional boat or floatplane engine drowned out by the joyful, rhythmic notes from birds singing on shore, and watching a family raccoons scavenge the shoreline for food.

Seattle Waterfront - Bell Harbor Marina

Our friend Darrell joined us as crew on our shakedown sail from Port Townsend to Seattle. Was good having the extra set of hands and he enjoyed holding “the big wheel” during his time helming.

While moored in Bell Harbor Marina, our time in downtown Seattle was consumed by visits onboard with family and several of our Seattle and Ohio friends… and it was fun having a few join us for a day sail to Bremerton.

Solar-Lithium-Electrical+ Refit (2024)

In February we hauled out in Boat Haven Marina (Port Townsend) for our long awaited electrical+ refit. We focused on a massive list of boat projects and were grateful for the skilled trades, Marina Cafe, Blue Moose, Sunrise Coffee, Pain D’Amore, Fountain Cafe, Silverwater Cafe and the occasional social visits by our friend Greg during the 3 month and 2 day refit!

Here’s a summary of the work performed…

Installed 2-3000w inverter chargers that charge 2 lithium banks: 12v 270ah running bank and 24v 540ah house bank. Batteries are chargeable by engine (new Wakespeed regulators and 24vdc 140A Lease Neville alternators), shore power, generator or solar: (1760w rigid panels mounted to arch (Sun Power/Maxion) and 1500w walkable panels (bougeRV) attached to the coach roof on corrugated polycarbonate with weld mounts). Upgraded our galvanic isolators to more robust dual isolation transformers to better protect the boat from marinas with bad/hot power setups. This also sets us up as “global power” as the incoming power can be 120/240v or 50/60hz… doesn’t matter, we just need the correct connectors/plug adapters for the country we’re in. Majority of the electrical was designed and installed by Revision Marine (Boat Haven Marina, Port Townsend).

Replaced our current HVAC units with Frigomar 24v AC 16k BTU HVAC that will run off the house battery bank. Installation by Mark McBride at Ice Sea Refrigeration (Seattle).

Had the hull windows and saloon skylight rebed by Gold Star Marine (Boat Haven Marina, Port Townsend).

The stainless solar arch and dive rack were designed, built and installed by Alan Phillips at Bristol Marine (Kingston).

And lastly… added a few outlets in more accessible locations, reconfigured existing outlets to better align to how they’re used, added blocks to run the lines to the helm for a downwind sail, upgraded anchor to 73lb Rochna, installed iNav4U and PredictWind DataHub, recertified the life raft and EPIBR, and tested/serviced all inflatable PFDs.

Offshore Emergency Medicine Certification (2024)

Completed our Offshore Emergency Medicine certifications with Wilderness Medical Associates International through the Annapolis Boat Show’s Cruisers University.

The 36-hour course prepares voyaging sailors/professional mariners on prevention and treatment of injuries and illnesses in the largest and most remote wilderness on earth (aka ocean)… the case studies, scenarios, hands-on skills labs (IVs, sutures, staples, injections, braces, etc) and kit discussions were excellent!

US Sailing International Offshore Safety at Sea Certification (2024)

Completed this 20 hour US Sailing International Offshore Safety at Sea certification… good refresher of many important topics but the hands-on experiences (how to use lifesling, launch/board/right a life raft, setting off flares/smoke, extinguishing different types of fires with different quality extinguishers/equipment) in an non-emergent situation were invaluable! Highly recommend: Safety at Sea Courses - US Sailing